Winter is not over yet

The view out Tom's tent this morning from Curley Gap Shelter

Tom awoke to a few inches of snow this morning then hiked 8 miles before calling it a day early this evening. His tent is pitched and he is all tucked in for the night. Snow continues to fall but a warm up is expected tomorrow. He told me that at some places the snow depth was knee high.

Ponderings at 15% Completion

I'm sitting under the care of my awesome wife in Erwin, Tennessee with ice on my right shin and behind my left knee.  It was uncomfortable this morning descending down into the Nolichucky River valley from the No Business Knob shelter where I stayed last night. I put in a 21 mile day yesterday in order to get myself in position to meet Anne a little before noon.


Tom with "Diesel" (VT) and "Dundee" (CT)
in Front of Uncle Johny's Hostel in Erwin

I'm able to keep the left knee pain tolerable with the aid of a brace and regular doses of ibuprofen.  Several wise folks including my doctor have suggested I switch to Aleve, as it might be easier on my stomach and it only requires dosing every 12 hours - so I am making that switch.  The right shin started hurting yesterday and was pretty uncomfortable this morning.  I am hoping that my Tiger Balm and ice treatment, along with a good night's sleep and a Salonpas patch on each spot, will have me feeling better by tomorrow, but I'm going to let the body decide tomorrow if another day of rest is needed.
I find myself going at a faster rate than most people my age and not able to keep up with the young guns... to some extent still looking for the rhythm that is right for me.  I don't plan to do any more 20+ mile days until I get into the more gently rolling hills of Virginia.  One advantage of going at my own pace is that I have the opportunity to meet awesome new people over time.
Anne was a little bit worried about the fact that I have lost 7 pounds since our last get-together at Fontana Dam a couple of weeks ago.  To try to alleviate her concerns we went immediately to an all-you-can-eat pizza place and I gorged myself.  Three and a half hours later we went out to dinner - spare ribs for the appetizer and a pad thai.  In just a bit, before laying down for sleep, I am going to eat a monster piece of chocolate cake that we brought back.
My lack of connectivity has been a bit of a frustration.  My cell phone plan does not include roaming, which makes a huge difference in the mountains.  Thanks, Anne, for keeping everyone generally abreast of my whereabouts and happenings.  Tomorrow morning I plan to go back to her posts and add some photos and anecdotes.

My First 20+ Mile Day

Big Bald in The Cherokee National Forest

The motivation for going so long was simply to put myself in a position to meet Anne before noon the next day in Erwin.  Otherwise, I am not a mile counter.  The views from Big Bald were just as beautiful as the picture indicates... although that one is not one I took.  I met a local at the top, and he pointed out some of the sights.
It is interesting to reflect on Winter hiking, since we are now officially into Spring.  There are many advantages of Winter hiking including:

• Unobstructed views of distant mountains, since the trees have not leafed out yet.
• Generally, plenty of water available and a little less water intake needed since one does not sweat so much.
• Temperatures that encourage you to "go"... and you can always be comfortable with the right clothing while moving.
• The pesky critters (bugs and snakes) are not out yet.

Among the disadvantages of course, is that the forests and balds are still largely dormant.  Max Patch is a large bald that some people believe is the most beautiful spot on the AT when it is fully in bloom with broad vistas in all directions.  However, in Winter it can look like the video clip that I took while up there in windy, socked in conditions.

I am glad that it is now officially Spring.  We have noted some hopeful signs, like the appearance of butterflies and the beginning signs of bloom.  Here is what I believe is the first trillium I have spotted (somewhat out of focus).

A Mouse Tried to Eat My Sleeping Bag!

I had been traveling for several days with Chovinard... a great young guy from out West.  I had commented to him that I couldn't quite figure out what to do with my cooking pot on the nights when my food bag was too full to place it in there and hang it on the bear cables.  I had just been placing it near my sleeping bag after cleaning it... but it seems that my culinary abilities left some aromas that attracted those darn shelter mice anyway.  I was waking up and finding mouse feces in my pot.... not a pleasant way to start the day.  Chovinard said, to tell you the truth, what I do is place the pot in my sleeping bag.  So, the night I stayed at Hogback Ridge shelter, I decided to try his technique.  Unfortunately, this is what transpired...

A Hole in my Down Bag

Needless to say, I was not a happy camper when I awoke and saw the damage.  My 6 degree Sierra Designs Dri-Down bag is something I was very proud of.  Thankfully, the mouse only went through the outer skin of one baffle, and not too much of the down was lost.  I have patched it with Duck Tape of course... and I trust it is still fully functional.  Chovinard's pot has a lock down lid on it, while mine does not.  I won't be putting mine in the bag again.

That brings the topic of tenting versus sheltering.  When I first started this trek I preferred to set up my tent even if I was at one of the shelters.  In fact, I tented for the first nine nights (with two hostel stays interspersed).  The last tent night before I tried sleeping in the shelter was at a shelter location that didn't have any level ground for tenting (Sassafras Gap).  I picked the most level ground I could find, but kept sliding into the bottom of the tent through the night.  As it turned out, the next day I happened to be the only person at the Cable Gap shelter, so I tried my first night in the shelter.  Sheltering does have its advantages with the key ones being not needing to take the time to set up and break down the tent, and being able to keep your gear dry if it is raining.  You get used to sleeping with strangers next to you... and no one remains a stranger long on the AT.  The biggest disadvantage is those darned mice.  I went the next eight nights (excluding any hostel or hotel stays) staying in the shelters.  Then the Hogback Ridge event happened.  That last night before descending into Erwin, I was back in my tent.


Luxury in Hot Springs

One of the characteristics that I picked up from my father (of Swedish descent) is being tight with money.  So I have to tell you about one of the aspects of hiking that I love... the incredible value of hikers hostels.  I stayed the night in Hot Springs, NC at Elmer's hostel.  Elmer has been an avid supporter of the AT for many years, having hiked the trail way back in the 70's.  He owns a beautiful 1840's constructed building that is listed on the National Historic Building register.  I stayed in his room #2... and this is what it looked like:

The next morning, Elmer put his well known culinary skills to work in preparing an unbelievably delicious breakfast with an omelet and all the trappings.  The total bill for the stay and the meal... $26.  Makes you want to be a hiker, huh?

Hot Springs is just a great trail town.  I had two other great meals there... one at the Smoky Mountain Diner ("Fat Boy" burger with 16 oz of beef and a large Appalachian salad) and one at the Riverside Grill.  The latter restaurant is deceiving.  It looks like a greasy spoon type of place inside a convenience store.  They actually serve gourmet meals at an incredible value.  My lunch before departing was a beet burger (that is no typo) and homemade potato salad.

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy's mission is to preserve and manage the trail ensuring that this natural beauty can be shared for years to come.  This web site has invaluable information including history, maps and up to date information and resources for anyone who may want to learn more or hike the trail. If you are interested check it out!

http://www.appalachiantrail.org/home

Done with the Smokies!

After having been cooped up in Gatlinburg for so long, I was anxious to make tracks.  I only spent one more night in the northern part of the Great Smokies before leaving that park boundary on the second day and making it to the Standing Bear hostel a few miles north.  Standing Bear is a very unique hostel as you can see in the video above.
I was the only hiker there that night!  Co-proprietor Curtis showed me around.  There were separate buildings for the bunkhouse, a kitchen/laundry area, a shower, and a composting privy.  Having the entire bunkhouse to myself seemed like a real luxury.

Manager Rocket invited me to join him and his buddy Giant (former U. of Minn. basketball player) at the fire they had built, after I showered.  They served me up the best two grilled hot dogs I have ever had in my life.... and I enjoyed conversation with them around the fire.

One of the unique aspects of this hostel is that the clothes washing (free) is done by hand in a basin using a washboard.  I ran my clothes through one of those hand-crank wringers before placing them into the dryer.  I learned a skill I had never had before.

By the way... the cost for my bunkhouse stay: $15.  An incredible value.

Three nights in Gatlinburg...

is too many nights.  We rushed to get in ahead of brutally cold weather forecast for two nights.  We were fortunate to have met a great young guy named Jay from Nashville, who was doing a day hike.  He offered to drive us the 15 miles or so into town.  We managed to get five of us with our packs into his Prius, with one pack on our laps in the back seat.  I also needed to replace my backpack.  My 20 year old lightweight pack was no longer up to the task, and I was using Duck Tape to try to keep the waist belt attached to the pack until I made it to the NOC outfitter.

Out with the old...

and in with the new...
thanks Shane!

It was frustrating, but that cold weather had brought snow that closed the road back up to the trailhead.  We were now stuck for a third night.  We had stayed the first two nights in the only hotel that advertised a hiker rate.  But that hotel was in the process of being sold and was very run down.  We found that for very little additional money on a per person basis (Diesel, Dundee and I were sharing a room) we could upgrade to the Bearskin lodge.  That last night was living in the lap of luxury.

 

When we finally had the opportunity to get hiking again, we were all anxious to get going.  Cabin fever!  Here are Diesel and Dundee hiking through the snow.  Also, a view from Charlie's Bunion.

 



206 Miles and Counting -Update Wednesday, March 12

Atop Clingmans Dome elevation 6,643 feet

Entering the Great Smokies





Ice on descent of Clingman's Dome

                                       


Three states down entering Tennessee

Dundee and Jay,; day hiker Jay gave the guys a lift into Gatlinburg 

 Tom is in Gatlinburg avoiding some wild weather and taking a rest with some fellow hikers today. After leaving Fontana Dam he hiked 15 miles to Russell Field Shelter and then the following day  went again 15 miles to Silers Bald Shelter. Yesterday was a 14 mile trek to atop Clingman's Dome and then near Gatlinburg. All in all the weather has been fabulous, however, there was  ice on the descent of Clingman's Dome and Tom captures a picture-he reports that the hiking was treacherous and he took a spill. He and Dundee came across Jay as they were nearing the Gatlinburg area who was day hiking and he the guys a lift into town. Interesting note, Angelle and Chuck Reichert had run into Dundee as they were day hiking near Fontana Dam last Saturday. Tom also ran into William for the first time since meeting him the very afternoon that Tom departed from the trailhead at Springer Mountain 18 days ago. The hike has taken a toll on his backpack as the waist belt is separating from the actual pack so today a visit to NOC in Gatlinburg for a new one is on the agenda. There is a sense of accomplishment as the hikers have already reached the highest point on the entire Appalachian Trail and avoided the weather  for the most part.

New backpack from NOC Gatlinburg ready to hit the trail again.

Anne

Sunday March 9th update-Onward and Upward

This photo shows where the Appalachian Trail begins again going toward Fontana Dam in the Great Smoky Mountains National Forest. If you look closely you can see the white blazes on the trees up ahead. These blazes are the markers that the hikers follow. The elevation change today for Tom will be an increase of 2,100 feet; a real workout.
We woke early to eat a hearty breakfast before dropping him off this morning right here. He had a good rest that was much needed the last day and a half.  It was very interesting to join other hikers in the lodge by the fireplace and see the tight hiker community that is forming as they share their experiences.
We were saddened to hear the "Chainsaw" took a fall on his decent near Nantahala Outdoor Center and broke his foot so his AT hiking experience is over for now.  It reminded everyone that all the  preplanning cannot prevent an occurrence like that.
The hikers also all commented on the sketchy phone and wireless coverage that had been available to that point. They have been told in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park coverage is even less available so we have decided to change the idea that Tom would be able to write the blog postings.  Instead I will  write the blog postings after speaking to him by phone and he will send current photos as he is able which I can insert.
The next several days look to be dial up perfect as far as weather conditions
 go. There are many new restrictions that the hikers must follow while in the  Great Smoky Mountains which include carrying a hikers permit and only spending the night in or near the shelters. Dogs are not permitted and all food bags must also be tied up into the bear cable storage systems which are in the trees near the shelters.
He has completed 162 miles of the journey so far and the next civilization
he will encounter will be in Gatlinburg, Tennessee.
Anne

A Zero Day at Fontana Dam

My key trail support person!

I was excited yesterday morning as I walked the 5-1/2 miles to where the AT crosses highway 28 near Fontana Dam.  Anne and our good friends the Reicherts were coming to meet me and I was going to stay off the trail the rest of the day and today and spend some R&R time with them.  As I neared the gap, I heard people calling "Hey Mexbuk-i!".  Chuck was leading the hike up the hill to greet me, with the ladies not far behind.  I lead a charmed life.


The Fontana Dam Village greeting committe

A few hours after the encounter, I ate a huge lunch, consisting of chicken wings and fries as the appetizer, a "Dam" burger with fries and a side salad... along with the leftover part of Anne's chicken bacon barbeque sandwich.  It is great to have a full stomach!  My body's needs at this point consisted of trying to figure out why my face was swelling each morning and of resting hamstring behind my left knee.  We've decided I might have an allergy to the down in the sleeping bag as well as some normal tree pollen allergy.  I might have to take a half dose of Benadryl at night... and we also purchased a pillowcase from Fontana Dam Village in order to add a layer between me and the down.  For the knee, this day of rest is already doing wonders.  I am taking some ibuprofen and elevating and icing it.  Meanwhile, Chuck and Angelle are out hiking the section that I will start on tomorrow so they can give me a trail report.

Clean clothes are a luxury!

Here is a recap of the last two days before reaching Fontana Dam.  After leaving Nantahala on Wednesday, I stayed the night at the Sassafras Gap shelter.  It was just under seven miles away, but a climb of about 2,600 feet... so a good way to get going again.  I met an entirely new group of people that night.  The "young guns" have gone out ahead.  There were seven of us - a quiet group - at the shelter that night.  I was the only one to set up a tent.  I should have tried sleeping in the shelter, because there wasn't any level ground to set the tent up on and I kept waking up having slid into the bottom side of the tent.

The next night I ended up ahead of the rest of the group and alone at Cable Gap shelter.  There was a small murmuring creek in front of the shelter, which made for a peaceful night.  I slept in the shelter for the first time since my shakedown hike.  I heard the mice scurrying around as soon as I shut my light out, but I had put all the edibles away carefully and they didn't bother me.

Trail Birthday

Sorry it has been so hard to post updates. I'm going to include a few photos here, and then provide a more detailed update this coming weekend when I will meet Anne and our friends the Reicherts for a zero (miles) day at Fontana Dam.
I turned 61 yesterday. It worked out that I came into the Nantahala Outdoor  Center early yesterday and I was able to spend it in the lap of luxury... restaurant and hostel. My trail buddies Trillium, Sloth and Ramses treated me to a meal with all the trappings... they are great folks!
Crossing into NC on the 28th was a kick... first of 14 states down! Right after getting into NC you are faced with the two steepest climbs thus far. I had to laugh at Chainsaw's comment (slightly revised to PG format)... it's like they say welcome to NC... but then "we hope you slide back into Georgia!" Thank goodness for the trekking poles!
I'm including in the photos one of Brad and Eric... the trail magic buddies that Anne mentioned in an earlier post.  So I am off north once again, perhaps into some rain and sleet and looking forward to the warmer coat and gloves that will be available once I meet up at Fontana Dam.



Early morning snow near Franklin, NC.

Tom's first trail angels, Brad and Eric-they provided a
 shuttle and gave him some leftover trail food.

      


Evening campfire at one of the campgrounds

State line Georgia and North Carolina

 





Sunday March 2, 2014 Update

Tom continues to enjoy his trail experience and by tonight will be 114 miles from Springer Mountain, just past Franklin, North Carolina. He has yet to have a rain event impact his trek. Two days ago he awoke to a half inch snowfall while staying at Muskrat Shelter. He says that it fell so silently he had no idea when he awoke to expect it and it was beautiful. Cannot wait to see those pictures! He continues to feel the benefits of the trail community. He especially felt it when he ran out of fuel, but "Terrific Tom" from Alaska had an extra canister and all is well.  He learned that the hostels all have Hiker Boxes which are filled with things that other hikers no longer need for one reason or another. Tom scored some gourmet quinoa, peas and  broccoli that had been dehydrated and he really enjoyed that last night; that was a step up from Ramen noodles with tuna.  He is ready for the rain which he expects to come across his path this week and thanks all of you for your comments and good wishes.
Anne

A Good Start!

I have heard from Tom and am providing this update to the blog today.  Once he reaches Fontana Dam, North Carolina next week the wireless signals should be available for him to post more news and pictures.
On Sunday Feb 23 Tom, Nikki, Koa and I took Tom up to Springer Mountain where we hiked the first mile with him then off he went for the adventure of a lifetime. Tom tells me the weather is breaking him in slowly. Initially there were 65 degree days and cool nights from Springer Mountain.

Since then it has rained one day mid day and one morning his water bottle had frozen solid due to the cold weather. He has camped out each night except last night where he stayed at Blueberry Patch Hostel outside Hiawassee, Georgia.  "It was awesome" he tells me. They were provided a hot breakfast of eggs, biscuits, hotcakes and coffee this morning and a warm place to sleep last night. The hostel is a Christian Ministry and he was blown away by their hospitality. He has hiked 69 miles since Sunday afternoon. Yesterday he was the recipient of his first trail magic. As he and his hiking buddy, Zach or "Shaggy Moe" ,came near their stopping point two section hikers offered them a lift to the hostel and also their leftover trail food. They felt very blessed. This morning the folks from the hostel will drive all the hikers back the 3 miles to the trail and by tonight Tom thinks he will be in North Carolina.
He is enjoying the community of hikers and has found everyone to be very friendly. It seems to be like an extended family. So far his legs and feet are holding up great. 
We plan to meet up at Fontana Village, North Carolina at the end of the week.
Anne Johnson