Tom's Update Wednesday September 17, 2014

Just wanted to fill you in briefly on my first week back on the trail while I have access to a computer.  Coming back to the White Mountains, generally considered to be the toughest part of the trail, was both a challenge and extremely rewarding.  I just completed the Whites yesterday with a 21 mile hike that ended at 8:30 pm in the dark with my headlamp on. Right now I feel like 'toast' but also feel that I have experienced my favorite part of the hike.
What makes the difference is being above the tree line. They say that if you are fortunate enough to experience a clear day at the top, you have views that are unparalleled. Well...after being socked in at the top of most of the mountains early on, I was gifted a day and a half of perfect weather for my ascent of Mt. Washington and many of the presidentials. I hiked with a Bostonian for an hour or so descending from Mt. Washington.  He is a frequent hiker and said of that afternoon," it never gets like this" referring to the sunshine with no wind. The caretaker at Madison Spring Hut the next morning said in giving the day's weather report ," I have never heard of forecasted visibility of 120 miles before". My pictures will give you some sense of what I experienced although they cannot begin to do justice to the magnificence of the views.
I am struck with all the non-coincidence associated with my trail experience. I have mentioned some of them before. Brother-in-law George having access to his sister's house in Lincoln, New Hampshire, which was exactly the little town I needed to get to in order to resume my hike. The first shelter I come to after resuming the hike being named Eliza Brook Shelter which is the name of my new granddaughter that I had just gotten off the trail to visit. That inspired my Ode to Eliza.  Passing Fishing Jimmy Trail at the end of my first day back...when Fishing Jimmy is the person that I have dedicated this hike to. Bumping into a little grey haired 72 year old  lady as she was leaving Zealand Falls Hut one morning and then ending up at Crawford Notch just as she was arriving and having her pass along some food that she had not eaten, saving me a trip into town. And the stories go on and on...
A quick note on the huts in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I had really expected them to be mostly a non-factor for my hike. I thought they were mostly for the short section hikers. I popped into the first one morning just out of curiosity and the crew offered my leftover breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs, pancakes and  oatmeal. Then as I approached the Zealand Falls Hut I thought I would ask about a work for stay option, just to have had the experience. It turned out that they took me on, and I got a great dinner and a warm dry place to stay in return for me scrubbing some pots and pans. After doing that I thought I should save those work for stay options for the hikers on a really tight budget. But as I approached the Mizpah Hut the next night the weather had taken a turn for the worse; cold, windy and raining. I weakened and asked if they had a work for stay option available which lead to another great meal and a place to stay in return for sweeping out and cleaning out the bunkhouses. Finally, the next night after going over Mt. Washington I approached Madison Spring Hut in the dark. It was 8 pm when I arrived and  I thought it was so late it would not hurt to ask as no other hikers will be coming later. The crew said "yes" and so I stayed three consecutive nights in huts.
I am nearly done with New Hampshire, should be arriving in Maine tomorrow!
Tom